7 Tell-Tale Signs Your ‘Vintage’ Guitar is Actually a Fake: Don’t Get Fooled Again

Buying a vintage guitar can be exciting, but watch out for fakes! Some sellers try to pass off new guitars as old ones.

The best way to avoid getting tricked is to know what to look for. Real vintage guitars have special signs that show they’re the real deal. Fake ones often miss these details.

By learning these signs, you can spot a fake guitar from a mile away.

Let’s dig into the seven main things to check when you’re looking at a ‘vintage’ guitar. These tips will help you make sure you’re getting what you paid for.

Mismatched or Low-Quality Hardware

Looking at a guitar’s hardware can tell you a lot. Real vintage guitars use top-notch parts. Fakes often mix and match cheap stuff.

Check out the tuning pegs. Are they all the same brand? Do they look old but work too smoothly? That’s fishy.

Bridges matter too. A Les Paul should have a specific type. If it’s wrong, your ‘vintage’ axe might be bogus.

Pickup switches can be telling as well. Fender and Gibson use different kinds. Make sure yours matches the real deal.

Here’s a quick checklist for spotting fake hardware:

• Mismatched brands;

• Too shiny or new-looking;

• Loose or wobbly parts;

• Wrong style for the guitar model.

Quality control was big for old Fenders and Gibsons. Everything should fit just right. If parts seem off, be careful.

Even real vintage guitars might have some replaced parts. But they should still be high-quality and fit the era.

Inconsistent Finish or Color

Let’s talk about one big red flag when checking out a so-called ‘vintage’ axe – weird finishes or colors.

Real vintage guitars age in a certain way. The color should be even all over. If you see spots that are way darker or lighter, that’s fishy.

Check out the body of that Fender or Gibson. Does the color match old photos of similar models? If not, you might be looking at a fake.

Here’s a quick checklist for you:

• Look for cracks in the finish that seem too perfect;’

• Check if the color is too bright for its supposed age;

• See if the wear patterns make sense for how the guitar was played.

Don’t forget to peek at the neck and headstock too. The color there should match the body.

Les Paul customs are often faked. Their finishes can be tricky to copy right. Keep an eye out for odd-looking binding or weird color transitions.

Got a UV light handy? Some fake finishes glow under it, while real vintage ones usually don’t. It’s a neat trick to try.

If something looks off about the finish, just trust your gut. It might just save you from buying a fake.

Incorrect Logo or Headstock Shape

The logo and headstock shape are key spots to check on your guitar. Fake guitars often mess these up. Let’s look at some common issues:

For Fender guitars, check the logo carefully. Real ones have clean, crisp lettering. Fakes might have fuzzy or wobbly text. The ‘spaghetti’ logo should be thin and elegant.

Gibson headstocks have a specific shape. It’s slightly curved at the top. Fakes sometimes get this wrong. They might be too flat or too pointy.

Les Paul models need extra attention. The Gibson logo should sit at a slight angle. If it’s dead straight, that’s fishy.

A quick checklist:

• Is the logo clear and sharp?

• Does the headstock shape match official pics?

• Are there spelling errors? (Yep, it happens!)

• Is the logo placement correct?

Custom shop guitars often have special logos. If you’re looking at one, double-check what it should look like.

Tell-tale details can give away a fake. Keep your eyes peeled and you’ll spot them.

Serial Number Discrepancies

Serial numbers are like fingerprints for guitars. They can reveal a lot about a guitar’s history and authenticity.

For Fender guitars, check the headstock or neck plate. Gibson Les Pauls often have serial numbers on the back of the headstock.

Always be careful. Some fakes have serial numbers that don’t match the guitar’s supposed age. Here’s what to look for:

• Wrong format for the year;

• Numbers that don’t line up with production records;

• Repeated numbers across multiple ‘vintage’ instruments.

Did you know? Some counterfeiters use real serial numbers from actual vintage guitars. This tricks buyers into thinking their fake is genuine.

Got a Custom Shop Fender or Gibson? These often have special serial numbers. Make sure they match what the manufacturer used that year.

Always compare the serial number to official records. Many guitar makers have online databases you can check. When in doubt, ask an expert.

Wrong Wood Types or Grain Patterns

Fake vintage guitars often use the wrong wood types or grain patterns. This is a big giveaway. Let’s look at some examples:

For Fender guitars, the wood should match the era. Pre-1970 Fenders used ash or alder bodies. Later models switched to different woods. Check if the wood fits the supposed year.

Gibson Les Pauls have strict wood rules too. The top should be maple, while the body is usually mahogany. Fakes might use cheaper woods that don’t look right.

Look closely at the grain pattern. Real vintage guitars have natural, random grain. Fake ones might have too-perfect or repeating patterns. This is a tell-tale sign of a counterfeit.

Custom shop guitars are tricky. They might use special woods. But even then, the grain should look natural. If it seems off, be careful.

Wood affects sound too. Play the instrument. Does it sound right for its supposed type and age? Trust your ears as well as your eyes.

Lastly, check for wood flaws. Real vintage guitars often have small imperfections. Too-perfect wood might mean it’s not genuine.

Incorrect Weight or Balance

Is your ‘vintage’ guitar feeling a bit off? The weight and balance might be telling you something. Genuine vintage guitars have a certain heft and feel to them.

If your guitar seems too light or heavy, that’s a red flag. Fender Stratocasters and Gibson Les Pauls have specific weight ranges. A real 1959 Les Paul should weigh between 8.5 and 9.5 pounds.

Here’s a quick guide to expected weights:

• Fender Stratocaster: 7-8.5 lbs;

• Gibson Les Paul: 8.5-9.5 lbs;

• Gibson SG: 6-7 lbs.

The balance of your guitar matters too. Hold it at the neck joint. Does it feel right? A fake might be too neck-heavy or body-heavy.

Pay attention to how the guitar feels when you play it. Does it sit comfortably on your lap? A genuine vintage instrument should feel natural and balanced.

Incorrect Binding Color or Material

The binding on a guitar is a key detail to check. Fake vintage guitars often get this wrong. On real vintage Fenders and Gibsons, the binding color and material should match the model and year perfectly.

Look closely at the edges of the body and neck. The binding should be smooth and even. Fakes may have rough or uneven binding. The color should be consistent all around.

For example, a ’59 Les Paul Custom should have:

• Multi-ply binding on the body;

• Single-ply binding on the neck;

• Cream or off-white color.

If you see bright white binding instead, that’s a red flag. Many fakes use the wrong shade.

The binding material matters too. Vintage guitars used binding with a nitrocellulose finish. Modern fakes often use just plastic. Nitro ages differently, developing a yellow tint over time.

Got a magnifying glass? Take a closer look. Real vintage binding has tiny air bubbles trapped inside. Fake plastic binding won’t have these telltale bubbles.

Frequently Asked Questions

What are common signs of a counterfeit PRS guitar?

Watch out for poor quality control on counterfeit PRS guitars.

The birds inlay on the fretboard might look off or sloppy.

Check the headstock logo – fakes often have wonky text or spacing.

The finish may look dull or have obvious flaws. Real PRS guitars have a mirror-like shine.

Inspect the bridge and tuners closely. Fake hardware is usually lower quality and may not match authentic PRS parts.

What steps should be taken to authenticate a Martin guitar?

Start by checking the serial number on the inside of the guitar. Look it up on Martin’s website to see if it matches the model and year.

Examine the wood grain and finish closely. Real Martins have top-notch craftsmanship.

The bracing inside should match the correct pattern for that model and era. Fakes often get this wrong. If possible, compare it side-by-side with a known authentic Martin of the same model.

Small details like the shape of the headstock can reveal a fake.